Bibingka is cooked sandwiched by fire. Suman is boiled and puto is steamed.
In Cagayan, there’s a fourth method of cooking Philippine rice cakes; inside bamboos and slow fire.
Welcome to the world of iconic Sinabalu and Tinubong, Cagayano rice cake which have proven its resistance against fraternization of international influences ; they have remain constant in the way they are prepared.
Sinabalu or rice cakes cooked in bamboos is the iconic domain of the Itawes region in Cagayan. In fact, it has been the region’s identity, part of their history and culture and a parcel of who they are as a people. The Sinabalu has been an expression of their way of living and passed on from generation to generation; part of their value system.
When the municipality held its 1st Sukalati and Sinabalu Festival in October this year, cultural warriors took notice. Tuaoeños say that the word, ‘Sinabalu’ allegedly comes from the Ibanag words, ‘sinni I balu ( who is the widow)?’
Residents of Barangay Cagumitan, as shared by Tuao Tourism Office, claimed that people started to cook the rice cake as early as 1788 at a time when residents cooked rice in ‘hulu (Itawes, a species of bamboo). According to popular beliefs in the area, the Sinabalu is usually cooked by a Balu (widow) and offer them to spirits as to ward them off from inflicting illness among family members.
But how is Sinabalu prepared among the Itawes in the area? As shared by the municipality, here’s how:
- Soak the deco (glutinous rice) for two hours in running water;
- Grate matured coconuts and squeezed to get the coconut milk;
- Cut the bamboos into desired lengths;
- Clean the freshly gathered ‘arukek (Arrowroot, Maranta anundinacea) leaves and together with the deko and a little salt or none at all, insert them into the bamboos.
- Cover with top of the bamboo with leaves ;
- Place the bamboos side by side on standing position and;
- Cook them in slow fire. Rotate the bamboos occasionally until done.
The preparation of the ingredients of this Cagayan treasure to its cooking is already a celebration of culture, tradition and relationship.
The Itawit of Tuao and Piat and the Malaueg of Rizal have mastered the art of cooking that bamboos are not burned nor the rice cakes inside the bamboos. As to how they do it remains a cultural secret.
In Piat, the bamboos are shorter. While Sinabalu is now highly commercialized in Piat and elsewhere, the Cagayano prefers the Sinabalu cooked for special occasions; most of the bamboos are full and at the same time the emotional attachment between the giver and the receiver is there.
Over in the Ilocano dominated municipalities along the coastal areas like Buguey, the Sinabalu is transformed into the Tinubong.
The main ingredients, coconut milk and glutinous rice are the same but the sturdy Ilocanos twisted the Tinubong; they add sugar, mixed the uncooked rice with peanuts, chocolates and at time raisins. The top of the Tinubong is covered with coconut fiber. Arrowroot (Iloco, Sago) is likewise the preferred leaf used. However, the biggest difference is that Tinubong is made from grounded rice, unlike the Sinabalu. Also, it is observed that the shell life of the Tinubong is longer than the Sinabalu.
By tradition, it is only during Christmas season that the Iloconos of Cagayan prepare the Tinubong. It can last until the first week of January.
For all their heritage worth, Sinabalu and Tinubong have been ours as Cagayanos. We must now train our young to prepare them so as to re-awaken them of what’s really theirs.
Here’s the rub: you can’t buy or order for cash the Tinubong of Northern Cagayan; it is only given as gifts during the Yuletide season. Isn’t that another Cagayano legacy? I bet on these culinary icons on bamboos.
